Frozen and Burst Pipes in Utah Winterswhy they split and what to do

Water expands when it freezes. In a pipe, the ice plug forms first in the coldest spot. As more water freezes, pressure builds in the section between the ice and the closed faucet. That pressure, not the ice itself, is what splits copper and cracks fittings. PEX is more flexible and resists splitting better, but its fittings can still fail.

The pipe often does not leak while it is frozen, because the ice blocks the flow. The leak starts when the weather warms or the heat reaches that wall, the ice melts, and water flows through the split under full pressure. That is why burst pipe calls in Springville often come on the first mild afternoon after a cold snap.

Close the main valve at once. Then follow the first-hour steps: stay away from wet electrical items, photograph the damage and protect belongings. Water from a split supply line is usually clean at first, which gives the best chance of drying materials in place if work starts quickly.

Water from a burst pipe in an upstairs wall often travels down inside the cavity and appears in the basement ceiling or along the bottom of the wall. Moisture readings are the only reliable way to find out how far it went.

Sudden water damage from a pipe that freezes and bursts is commonly covered by homeowners insurance. Some policies exclude freezing damage if a home was left vacant or unheated without draining the plumbing, so cabin and second-home owners should check their policy wording.

Most of the winter, Springville homes cope with the cold without trouble. Problems cluster around the sharpest cold snaps, when temperatures fall well below normal for several days, often with wind. Pipes that have survived many winters can freeze when the cold lasts long enough to chill a wall cavity or garage completely. Wind makes it worse by pushing cold air through gaps around sill plates, vents and pipe penetrations.

The homes most affected are often those with recent changes: a garage converted to living space, a new bathroom on an outside wall, or an addition with plumbing in a cold corner. Older homes with pipes routed through crawlspaces are also vulnerable.

Outdoor faucets are a classic failure point. Frost-free hose bibs are designed with the valve inside the heated wall, but they only work if the hose is disconnected so water can drain from the barrel. A hose left attached through the first freeze can trap water and split the pipe inside the wall, where the leak shows up in the basement ceiling when the tap is next used in spring.

Lawn sprinkler systems and secondary irrigation lines also need draining or blowing out before winter. Backflow devices above ground are especially vulnerable to splitting.

Once a plumber has repaired the split, take a moment to fix the reason it froze. That may mean adding insulation, sealing an air leak, rerouting a pipe away from an exterior wall or adding heat tape where appropriate. Without that step, the same pipe is likely to freeze again in the next cold snap.

Sometimes a pipe freezes and thaws without splitting, but the fitting or joint is weakened. Watch for small drips or damp spots near that pipe in the weeks after a cold snap. Fix them early before they fail fully.

Before leaving in winter, set the heat to a safe minimum, open cabinet doors on outside walls, shut off and drain outside lines, and consider shutting off the main water. Ask someone to check the house during cold snaps.

Garages are a frequent trouble spot. Keep the big door closed on cold days, especially if a laundry, sink or bathroom line runs through a garage wall. A small, safe heat source may be needed in garages with plumbing during deep freezes.

Keep a hair dryer and the location of the main shutoff in mind every winter.